Official Creality 3D Printer Ender 3 Upgraded Silent Board Motherboard V4.2.7 with TMC2225 Driver Marlin 2.0.1 for Ender 3/ Ender 3 V2/ Ender 3 Pro/Ender 3 Max/Ender 3 Neo/3 V2 Neo/3 Max Neo

Upgraded my Max Neo 3D printer to this silent board. Not sure if it made the printer any quieter but it did let me update to the Sprite extruder pro. That made a big difference in print quality. What did lower the noise was changing the cooling fan for the board. Make sure you have the firmware downloaded for the new board. It will save you lots of time.

After installing on printer... Took less then 5 minutes for Sonic Pad to finish Klipper installed and running... For SKR mini and for 4.2.2 i had to download.. edit and upload printer.cfgTo my surprise this time I don't had to do it. Was done automatic.Super quiet.. Printer next to me in bedroom.. have to turn around to see if its working..

Went in with no issues. Did the firmware update, had to do the Hot End PID calibrations, reset all the E-Steps, and since I also added a probe, I needed to set up the X and Y offsets. Worked awesome. Quiet and prints look a lot smoother. This is something that should be updated on an old printer like my Ender 3 V1. The prints I'm getting now are as good as my new Ender 3 V3 Plus.

Have had a few Ender 3 V2s for a few years now and never upgraded anything but the bed springs. One of the printer boards bricked while updating firmware (same firmware since 2021 on this one) so I figured I'd give the silent board a try. I should have made the replacement years ago. Will be updating all my printers in the near future.The firmware that came on mine was for the CR-10, updated firmware to the latest 4.2.7 board firmware for the Ender 3 V2 and calibrated PID using the SD card.If you use the SD card to update for my 1.0.1 software version (no PID autotune option through menu):In notepad, enter each line of code and nothing else. You will create 3 separate files Name them accordingly. for example, the first one is for my bed, I saved it as "PID_bed.gcode" and the next one I labeled as "PID_nozzle.gcode and the last I labeled PID_save.gcode. Insert the SD card into the printer and "print" the file. It'll go through the PID tuning. Once complete, delete that file and load the next file onto it and repeat.S=temperature you want to set it at.C#=number of cycles you want it to run. The more the more accurate.M500 is to save the settings so they stay after shutting the machine off.M303 E-1 S80 C5M303 E-0 S240 C5M500

I am pretty much done with Creality as a company after this product. I finally dug into 3D printing to work out all the bugs. I have taken this Ender 3 apart twicee, figured out every problem, how it works, figured out how to throw G code at it, understanding every nuance...This board is crap. Firstly, I had it equipped with a sprite but for whatever reason I needed a CL or BL touch plugged into the thing for it to so much as home. It was expecting data from a non-existent piece of equipment. Fine, I fork over the 32 dollars for the CL touch (80 for the sprite, 40 for the new board) and low and behold it finally homes, but it was homing 4 inches above the board. So I dug into the manual more which wasn't helpful AT ALL for the CL touch and I find out the following as I try to print literally anything on this board/firmware:-I gotta constantly disable step motors before I do any adjustments to get the z axis below the "zero" AGAIN, IT IS 4 INCHES ABOVE THE BOARD! Never figured out how to do that in the menus so I had to connect a PC to it to even level it properly.-The stupid board resets all my settings when I turn it off, this is apparently a common problem with the firmware, goes back to Chinese.-Fine, I'll have all the G codes ready in case of a reset, I'll type all of them in really quick, save the settings, and I should be at the zero point I was before with a perfect, crisp, paper scratch for leveling....EXCEPT IT SOMEHOW DELETED MY SETTINGS BUT WENT EVEN LOWER TOWARD THE BOARD AFTER ZEROING IT, I COULDN'T EVEN RAISE IT BACK UP EVEN WITH THE RIGHT GCODES.The marlin versions I found (and what I built) all had their own problems, seems there are variants of this 4.2.7 board that work better than others or don't work at all.I am buying a bambu lab for my next 3D printer, they understand that these things should be tools and not time vampires. I will never recommend Creality to anyone. Out of the box it was mostly fine but upgrading it has been hell.